Fried Softshell Crab Sandwich
a big softie at heart.
I’ve been on vacation, fittingly enjoying mountains of fried clams by the sea, but now I am frantic to release this installment. The softshell crabs don’t stay soft forever, but there is still time in this early stage of summer to enjoy them.
I imagine this as the first part of a fried seafood double feature, that is if I ever get around to filming a clam roll video in the coming week. I have been exacting my craft concerning crispy shellfish on plush bread with a creamy-zingy mayo-based sauce for years now. It’s a culinary world I thrive in. My first pop-up EVER was a Clam Shack Brunch at the now-closed Lunar Inn in Philadelphia. I am planning (hopefully) to bring the clam roll back to life this summer, location pending. For now, I enjoy these sandwiches at home. Maybe you can too.
This recipe is organized by its component parts. It always starts with bread. A soft potato or brioche bun from the store will do in place of homemade. Hey, don’t sweat it.
Soft Sandwich or Burger Bun Recipe (makes 6):
225 grams of water
15 grams of milk powder
25 grams of melted butter
25 grams of neutral oil
1 whole egg plus 1 egg yolk
500 grams of flour
10 grams of salt
5 grams of instant yeast
Begin by adding the water and milk powder to the bowl of a stand mixer. Add in the melted butter, followed by the oil and eggs. Whisk to combine.
Whisk the flour, salt, and yeast together in a separate bowl. Add to the wet ingredients. Mix on speed 2 for 8 minutes. Turn off the mixer and let the dough rest in the bowl for 5 minutes. Mix for a final 8 minutes on speed 2. At this point, the dough should be sticky but workable and elastic. Turn it out onto a table, using a little flour if necessary, and form it into a ball. Transfer to a lidded container with enough room to rise. I usually put it back into the stand mixer with a plate on top to cover it. Let proof for an hour at room temperature, or overnight in the fridge (BETTER FLAVOR THIS WAY).
Once filled with gas and significantly risen, turn the dough out onto a work surface. Divide into 6 equal portions and form into balls. To do this, flatten the dough out into a rough square with your hands and pinch the corners together. Turning the dough over onto its seam, spin the dough around and around in circles with a cupped hand. Make sure there is no flour on the table, as the friction of the wet dough against the table is what creates tension in this shaping process. There are videos of bakers doing this online, you’ll get the idea. Lay out the dough balls on a parchment-lined sheet tray and brush with egg wash (1 egg whisked with 1 tsp water).
Let proof for an hour or so (they should puff up a bit), brush again with egg wash, and bake at 375°F for 15-20 minutes or until golden brown and baked through. Rotate the tray halfway through to ensure even browning.
Old Bay Remoulade:
1/2 cup mayo
1 Tbsp Creole or whole-grain mustard
1 tsp hot sauce
1 tsp chopped capers
1/2 tsp Old Bay
1/2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
1/2 Tbsp lemon juice
Add all the ingredients to a small bowl and mix to combine. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
To prepare the crabs, I add them to a bowl with a pinch of salt, a few dashes of hot sauce, and enough buttermilk to completely submerge. I’ll let this soak for at least an hour. I haven’t tested for an upper limit here, but if I’m having this for dinner, I’ll marinate the crabs in the morning.
Dinnertime! I put a pot of neutral oil on the stove, and bring it up to 375°F Once I’m ready to fry, the crabs are pulled from the buttermilk and tossed in …
My Standard Seafood Dry Dredge:
3/4 cup flour (pastry flour is preferred, but all-purpose will do)
3/4 cup corn flour
1/2 tsp cayenne
1/2 Tbsp black pepper
3/4 Tbsp kosher salt
3/4 tsp msg (!!!!!!!)
Once thoroughly coated, drop carefully into the hot oil to fry. Remove once golden brown and crispy, seasoning with a touch more salt or even Old Bay while hot.
To assemble, slice open a bun and toast in a skillet with butter. Add a bit of remoulade to the bottom bun, followed by the fried crab and then another spoonful of remoulade. Optionally top with a tuft of green onions (cut very thinly on an extreme bias) and (non-optionally) the top bun. Enjoy!